INCI-Fibel No. 1 - Mica (Glimmer)

MICA is used in both natural cosmetics and conventional cosmetics. The mineral provides a fine shimmer and protects against UV rays. Ground into fine pigments, mica shimmers in mineral make-up, lipsticks and eye shadows. When can we actually talk about minerals? The International Mineralogical Association (IMA) - an international organization founded in 1958 - decides whether a mineral may be called a mineral by definition and thus be granted the status of a mineral. In 1998, the "Mica Subcommittee" was convened specifically to assess the minerals of the mica group. This mineralogical association has declared that biotite is a solid solution. In comparison, Muscovite is an officially recognized IMA mineral. Chemically, muscovite and biotite are silicate minerals. Muscovite as a light mica can be colorless, silver, light gray, yellowish to greenish. Biotite, muscovite and fuchsite belong to the mica minerals.

INCI-Fibel No. 2 - Titandioxid (CI77891)

Last stand, which was decisive for me for the use, is that CI77891 is to be classified in the category of harmful substances (possibly carcinogenic) only if the ingredient is contained in the product in nanoparticles (nanoparts), i.e. extremely small. Then it is said that it can reach the lungs or break through the intestinal walls.

However, the titanium dioxide we use contains the individual particles so large that they are swallowed and excreted, if at all. The ratio of sizes is about the same as a Fiat 500 versus a double truck. Scientists have now found that smoke (even if it's not visible) from fireplaces or cozy campfires is a much more extreme attack on the lungs.

In sunscreens, however, titanium dioxide is often used in nanoparts, and these have a corresponding effect even though they are contained in cream form, i.e. not inhaled as a powder. Therefore, when looking at products - especially sun creams, toothpaste, dragées - pay attention to the designations in the inci's: "microniced" or "nano". Since 2009, every manufacturer has been obliged to communicate nanoparts to the consumer in this way.

INCI-Fibel No. 3 - Sun protection

Now - at sun-summer time - all ask again for the "Hipe" sun protection factor (SPF), which can not be high enough. Make yourself clear that a high SPF (over 30) but is not of natural origin but is chemically produced. Natural (not chemically produced) SPF are mostly up to 15 SPF and they are produced by adding minerals. They remain on the skin where they reflect the sun's rays, while chemical UV filters penetrate the skin where they act similarly to hormones. Most of them can severely disrupt metabolic processes in the body. There are also a few harmless chemical UV filters, but from SPF 30 they have the disadvantage of leaving an unsightly white film on the skin. If you are looking for a high level of sun protection without looking like a ghost, this is only possible if you also accept nanoparticles in the cream. (INCI primer on nanoparticles).

It is easier to take a rich moisturizer and use our powder (foundation, specials) on top of it. This naturally protects the body as a whole and not least the animal kingdom that lives in the water when we go swimming in the sea creamed. Reducing these mineral particles to nano size has the advantage of providing a high level of sun protection without looking like a ghost after applying the cream

INCI-Fibel No. 4 - Nanoparticles (taboo for us)

Nanoparticles have their name because of their very small size of the individual grain. This minimal size causes, positively, that they are not visible on the skin. This is why they are so popular for sun creams and sprays. On the negative side, however, they can penetrate the skin. It is even more extreme with sprays containing nanos: they can even be inhaled and have a reputation for being able to break through the intestinal walls.

In addition to the health aspect, there is also another component: nanoparticles that get from the skin into the water when bathing in the sea or in lakes have negative effects on the living organisms in these waters. They affected the growth of microorganisms and the behavior of fish. For nanoparticles, there is therefore a special labeling obligation in the EU: products containing nanoparticles must be labeled with the suffix (nano). You can thus easily recognize them in the INCI lists.

Mineral (natural) filters, on the other hand, remain on the skin surface and reflect the sun there. Unlike most chemical filters, they do not break down at all. They include titanium dioxide.

INCI-Fibel No. 5 – Heavy metals

It is good to know that heavy metals are in all foods that come from the earth: Carrots, asparagus, beets, etc. Every time you eat asparagus, you ingest more heavy metals than if you ate our mineral powders by the spoonful. Mineral powders basically contain heavy metals, but they are far below the allowed ppm range. There are suppliers who advertise that their mineral powders are free of heavy metals. This is not possible at all if they are natural minerals, because - as I said - they come from the earth.

Due to the composition of our powders, which after all consist exclusively of mineral pigments and have no oils, waxes or other ingredients, it can be assumed that despite responsible selection of pigments or raw materials, traces of heavy metals in the ppm range could also be found. The pigments are not completely free of nickel (up to 100 ppm may be present in one kilogram of pigment). In principle, the products can be tested for nickel in case of allergy.

INCI-Fibel No. 6 - Talkum (für uns tabu)

Kennt Ihr „Speckstein“? Ich habe es früher geliebt, irgendwelche Gebilde daraus zu schleifen. Es geht ganz einfach sogar mit einem Löffel, weil dieser Stein sehr weich ist. In der Kosmetik kennt man ihn unter dem Begriff „Talkum“. Talkum ist ein feines Puder, das beim Abbau von Talkgestein (Speckstein) gewonnen wird. Talk ist im Allgemeinen weder haut- noch augenreizend, auch Allergien sind bisher nicht bekannt. Dennoch kann das Einatmen von feinem Talkpulver zu Entzündungen in den peripheren Atemwegen führen. Talk ist der Hauptbestandteil von Pestiziden, wie von Floh- und Zeckenpuder – aber auch von Baby-Puder und unzähligen Produkten der Kosmetikindustrie. Es ist ein sehr kostengünstiger Inhaltsstoff und kann sogar gesundheitliche Probleme verursachen. Wir konnten die Erfahrung machen, dass Talk als Inhaltsstoff in Mineralkosmetik die Poren verstopft und die Haut stark austrocknet. Leider merkt man das erst nach einer Weile. Zuerst macht Talk eine zarte Haut. Lest zu Talkum mehr unter:

INCI-Fibel No. 7
Beeswax (taboo for us in our own products)

It consists mainly of palmitic acid ester (86%) and cerotic acid (14%).
Beeswax (lat. Cera Flava) is a wax secreted by bees, which they use to build honeycombs. Purified, it is sold as Cera alba.

Due to its healing properties, real beeswax is a popular ingredient in natural cosmetics. There is information that per 100 kg of harvested honey and of course also depending on the mode of operation 1 to 1.5 kg of wax.

The best quality has beeswax from unincubated wild. This wax is particularly bright and mildly fragrant. Due to its high quality, beekeepers also like to use it again to produce middle walls (honeycomb preprints). For beekeeping, it is important that no pathogens for bee diseases can be transmitted in unincubated wax.  Due to the Varroa mite, which has been introduced since the 1970s, the bees have been treated with various drugs. These drugs can remain as residues in the beeswax. Most beekeepers have now changed their Varroa treatment concept to residue-free medications. But some of the drugs are still in the wax cycle.

INCI-Fibel No. 8 - Carnauba wax

Brazil is the country with significant carnauba production. The leaves of the palm trees are coated on both sides with the plant wax to protect them from evaporation. After drying the leaves, most of the wax already dissolves by itself. The rest is obtained by scraping, tapping and brushing. Of the natural waxes of plant origin, carnauba wax is the hardest. Its melting point is 80-87 °C, which is very high for a natural wax. When melting, the wax develops a characteristic hay-like scent.

To date, no intensively managed plantations have been established. On the one hand, this is due to the fact that a newly established plantation would take about 20 years to produce an adequate output, so that corresponding investments are shied away from. On the other hand, carnauba delivers only low revenues per hectare compared to other crops. The wax is correspondingly valuable and expensive. However, carnauba occurs in high densities on poor soils, and due to relatively stable world market demand, the supply has been sufficient to meet demand so far. Who knows how this will develop in the future in the course of increasing demand for natural waxes.

INCI-Fibel No. 9 - Calcium Sulfate

Calcium sulfate is a chemical compound of calcium and sulfur that is used as an additive in some foods. As the name suggests, it is rich in the mineral calcium and is produced, for example, in the manufacture of tartaric acid. It is also used, for example, as a coagulant in various types of tofu, helping to produce a cut-resistant product. Calcium sulfate also occurs naturally. The body of an adult male contains more than one kilogram of calcium, which is mainly stored in the bones. Calcium sulfate is approved as a food additive without restriction and is considered safe. Incidentally, it is readily available to the body and can therefore support the supply of calcium.

In our powder blends, it ensures that it is not too "fluffy" and can be easily worked into the brush. It does not clog the pores like talc, for example.

In homeopathy, Calcium Sulfuricum is a remedy that fits numerous clinical pictures and complaints. It also belongs as an independent active ingredient to the Schüßler salts. It is especially recommended in dermatology when the skin tends to form pustules or boils. Calcium Sulfuricum ensures healthy and fresh-looking skin.

INCI-Fibel No. 10 - Boron nitrides

They are often confused with the term "boron", which is an acid. In fact, boron nitrides are minerals found in diamonds and in graphite. Although hexagonal boron nitride was used in cosmetics as early as 1940, it didn't catch on until the 1990s, after manufacturing costs plummeted. The high covering power and the graphite-like texture, which is advantageous for application, are the decisive properties for its use in make-up. Here is some more info from wikipaedia: In 2009, a naturally occurring boron nitride mineral in cubic form (c-BN) was reported in Tibet with the proposed name Qingsongite . The substance was found in dispersed micronized inclusions in chromium-rich rocks. In 2013, the International Mineralogical Society confirmed the mineral and the name. The skin protection angel classifies boron nitrides as recommendable. In ANGEL MINERALS powders, it is particularly noticeable for its smoothness on the skin.

INCI-Fibel No. 11

Glycerin (taboo for us in our own products)

Glycerin is a sugar alcohol and is present in all natural fats. It is a developing product, which is formed during the saponification of fats and oils to obtain soaps. In addition, glycerin is obtained synthetically from petroleum. Interestingly, this is also referred to as "high-purity" glycerin, which is mainly used in the pharmaceutical, food and cosmetics industries.

Glycerin binds moisture. "Even though glycerin is considered the number one moisturizer in many cosmetic products, critics criticize precisely the substance's moisture-binding effect. When humidity is low, the glycerin contained in creams and lotions can have the effect that - instead of binding moisture from the air and keeping the skin supple - it is withdrawn from the connective tissue. In this way, the skin dries out from the inside. To prevent the negative effects, the amount of glycerin in the products must not exceed 10 percent."

So if you find glycerin in your products, it is important to know if it is 1. organic, 2. derived from a plant, and 3. further down the ingredient list and not in the top three places. Inci lists are always structured in such a way that the more of a substance there is, the further up the list it is.

INCI-Fibel No. 12 - Silica (silicic acid)

Silicic acid - or more recently silica, taken from English - consists of silicon. Silicon is present in our body and plays a role mainly in the formation of so-called collagen fibers and cartilage. Our body is not able to produce silicon by itself. The trace element must therefore be supplied with the help of food or in the form of dietary supplements and is excreted unchanged after consumption. Cereals such as oats, barley and millet are particularly rich in silicic acid, as are vegetables and fruit.

If necessary, silicic acid-containing foods or extracts are used today as a supportive treatment for osteoarthritis, rheumatism or general joint complaints. In the wild, silicon is always found bound to oxygen, where it ensures, for example, that blades of grass are pliable and stand up well. Most of the world's sand deposits consist of this silica (silicon dioxide/quartz), because this mineral is most abundant in the upper crust of the earth.

In our powders it has the important function of improving spreadability and it can absorb water and grease.

INCI-Fibel No. 13 - Minerals

When can one actually speak of minerals?
The International Mineralogical Association (IMA) - an international organization founded in 1958 - decides whether a mineral may be called a mineral by definition and therefore be given the status of a mineral. In 1998, the "Mica Subcommittee" was convened specifically to evaluate the minerals of the mica group. This mineralogical association has declared that biotite is a solid solution. In comparison, Muscovite is an officially recognized IMA mineral. Chemically, muscovite and biotite are silicate minerals and within the silicates, both are classified as phyllosilicates. Muscovite as a light mica can be colorless, silver, light gray, yellowish to greenish. The line color is nevertheless white with both minerals. Info: Did you know that there are about 5,600 types of minerals? It is important to know that man-made substances are not minerals. Minerals are formed by crystallization or from aqueous solutions or from gases (for example at volcanoes). However, one must not think of it as mineral cosmetics made of ground precious stones, which are also called minerals. Gemstones are the visible condensed form of minerals and our powders are a mixture of different powdery minerals.

INCI-Fibel No. 14 - Tocopherol = Vitamin E

Customer asks: How is the tocopherol for your mascara obtained?
The tocopherol in our mascara is obtained from natural sources. It is GMO free. GMO stands for "Genetically Modified Organism" (synonym: GMO - Genetically Modified Organisms) and means the method of changing the genetic makeup of an organism by means of genetic engineering.

Tocopherol is also commonly called vitamin E. Vitamin E refers to a whole class of similar chemical substances, the so-called tocopherols. In nature, these substances usually occur in mixtures. In their effect they are similar and can therefore rightly be called one active ingredient, namely vitamin E. In cosmetics, compounds of vitamin E are often used. In the INCI, these are then called Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopheryl Nicotinate or Tocopheryl Succinate. Natural cosmetics companies - like us - use vitamin E from natural oils. It can be obtained, for example, from sunflower oil, which naturally contains high concentrations of vitamin E. Tocopherol binds moisture in the stratum corneum, promotes wound healing through its cell renewal and anti-inflammatory effects, and reduces skin damage caused by UV radiation. In general, it is considered to be excellently tolerated. In mascara, it is simply one of the best natural oils that can be used for the eyelashes.

INCI-Fibel No. 15 - Zinc oxides - CI77947 (taboo for us)

... is a white, odorless powder with high opacity. Just like titanium dioxide, zinc oxide (rightly in my opinion) contains the warning that the nano-sized particles can be dangerous. In cosmetic use, particle sizes around 250 nm dominate, but as UV filters, particle sizes in the nano range around 100 nm and smaller are preferred to avoid the undesirable "whitening effect". But it is precisely these nanoparticles that are suspected of penetrating deep into the skin and causing damage. If it is used in nano size, it can also be respirable and is commented as carcinogenic.

Nanoparticles are tiny particles that are used in many cosmetic products such as deodorants, toothpaste or even sunscreens. With a size of 1 to 100 nanometers, they are unimaginably tiny - a human hair, for example, is about 90,000 nanometers wide. Because they are so small, it is assumed that nanoparticles are membrane-permeable, i.e. they can penetrate deep through the natural skin barriers and thus accumulate in the body, with potentially negative consequences for the organism. Sprays are classified as particularly dangerous because they can be inhaled without being clearly noticed and thus reach the lungs.

Generally, it is used as a natural cosmetic ingredient. Since it is also known that the effect of zinc oxides is highly drying, we use this ingredient in our powders only as a color pigment and in extremely small doses and (IMPORTANT) not in nano size! Remember again: What is listed at the very back of the INCI list is contained in very small amounts, at the very front are the highest ingredient amounts.

INCI-Fibel No 16.1. - Wool Wax (Part 1) - taboo for us

Lanolin is obtained from the wool of sheep. After shearing, the wool is boiled and the lanolin is extracted. Lanolin has a water-repellent effect and thus protects the sheep from wetness. But unfortunately, sheep and their wool are often treated with pesticides. The residues of these pollutants could then also be contained in the wool wax. However, certified natural cosmetics do not contain pesticides.

Creams containing wool wax are very rich. In addition to its nourishing effect, lanolin is also popular because of its emulsifying ability. This means that it can be mixed with practically all substances contained in cosmetics.The fact that the substance covers the skin like a protective film is an advantage for dry skin - but if you have a tendency to skin impurities, this effect can be problematic. This is because the fat-rich wool wax can clog the pores and is therefore comedogenic (promoting pimples).

What many people don't know is that sheep only need to be shorn because they have been bred to produce enormous masses of wool. A non-domesticated sheep only has as much wool as it needs. It is also important to know that in Germany sheep wool is mostly imported from countries like Australia or New Zealand. There, practices are carried out on the sheep that have long been viewed very critically in Europe, such as: tail docking.

Continued in INCI-Fibel No. 16.2

INCI-Fibel No. 16.2. - Wool Wax (Part 2) - taboo for us

Here it goes on with info about where wool wax actually comes from: Namely from sheep and they don't really do well with it.

Tail docking: To prevent animals from contaminating themselves with their own feces, lambs have their tails docked. This extremely painful procedure may be performed shortly after birth on lambs less than eight days old - and without anesthesia. This fate is still suffered by countless lambs worldwide, even though the EU Council of Europe is clearly against this practice. In addition, male sheep are often castrated without anesthesia, also an extremely painful procedure.

Mulesing: another cruel practice designed to prevent infestation with fly maggots. Some breeds, such as the Merino sheep, have been bred to have large skin folds for higher-yield wool production. Parasites such as the so-called "gold fly" often collect in these folds and lay eggs there. The metabolic products of the larvae that hatch from them can lead to the death of the sheep. To prevent pest infestation, large folds of skin around the anus, genitals and tail are cut out of the lambs without anesthesia. The open wounds are usually not treated, causing severe pain and inflammation. This mutilation of the animals, which is forbidden in Germany, is still common practice in Australia, as the "Albert Schweitzer Stiftung" criticizes.

Shearing:Also the removal of the wool with a shearing device is a very stressful situation for the sheep. Shock videos by "PETA" have already shown several times how brutally sheep are treated in the Australian wool industry. During shearing, workers stand on the necks of the frightened animals, hit the sheep in the face and wound them severely. The resistance of the shy animals is to be broken in such a way.

Animal lovers naturally want to know under what conditions the sheep have lived. The problem, however, is that it is hardly possible to trace where the wool wax in creams and the like comes from. It is therefore easier to do without the substance altogether. Alternatively, plant-based care substances can be used. These include shea butter or candelilla wax. Both have a strong protective and caring effect and are thus a good and purely vegetable substitute for lanolin.

Other names for lanolin on the INCI list include lanolin acid, lanolin alcohol, lanolin cera, lanolin oil, lanolinamide dea, laneth-5-75 or polyglyceryl-2 lanolin alcohol ether. With CodeCheck you can easily and quickly find out if a product contains lanolin with a scan of the product as well as with the Vegan-Check.

INCI-Fibel No. 17 - PEG derivatives 

polyethylene glycol (Not with us!)

This time we'll briefly tell you about an ingredient that is guaranteed not to be in our products: PEG derivatives.

PEGs are often found, for example, in artificial tears or in the preparation used to cleanse the intestines before a colonoscopy. The ingredient is also found in sweeteners and food supplements. In cosmetics, it is used as an emulsifier, where it ensures the desired consistency of products. On the other hand, as a surfactant, it ensures that shampoos, shower gels and the like foam. PEG can be found in almost all cosmetics, including creams, deodorants, lipsticks, perfumes, toothpaste and bath products. It is a special substance whose substances are also known to be able to smuggle foreign substances into the skin (ÖKO-Test 2016). Some contain carcinogenic nitrosamines (nitrosamine N-nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA). Nitrosamines, whether they enter the body with food or from cosmetics via the skin, can cause tumors in the liver, kidneys and respiratory tract.

INCI-Fibel No. 18 - Ultramarine Blue (CI7707)

Ultramarine is actually a blue hue and stands for a collection of inorganic pigments of different colors with a similar chemical structure. The pigments are very lightfast. The minerals used for pigment production in the past were imported to Europe "across the sea", which is how the term ultramarine came about, meaning "the blue from across the sea". Synthetic and natural ultramarines are based on the very similar chemical structure of the colorless sodalite mineral. In advertising, ultramarine is often used as a blue to evoke a positive mood in the buyer. Deviating from this, numerous other ultramarine pigments are available that are green or red in color and lighter or darker in color. In an extended sense, the shade ultramarine thus covers the entire range from a greenish blue to a rich blue to a dark pink.

INCI-Fibel No. 19 - Mineral oils (taboo for us)

Mineral oils are extracted from petroleum, similar to gasoline or diesel. But I did not want to delight you with a photo of an oil well. That's why I took one of conventional cream makeup, since most of them also contain mineral oil. They are filtered, of course, until only certain hydrocarbons are left in them. The result is a translucent oil, which is also called white oil. Mineral oils are very easy to process and are particularly durable and above all ... they are very inexpensive and, on top of that, they are approved as a "natural product".

While vegetable oils can become rancid and must be additionally protected in the cream, this is not necessary with mineral oils. In application, they offer the advantage that they cause virtually no allergies. This also has to do with the fact that mineral oils, as products of petroleum, are foreign to our bodies. That is why they penetrate only into the uppermost layers of the skin. There they create a kind of film that immediately seals the skin. This makes the skin feel soft on the outside.

However, this sealing of the skin is a problem. The skin can no longer breathe properly and becomes sluggish. The skin's natural regeneration processes are slowed down. If we use creams and make up containing mineral oils, we must be aware that under the protective layer of mineral oils, the skin remains just as stressed as before. Moreover, since the mineral oils cannot really penetrate the skin, they are not suitable for transporting vitamins and other active ingredients.

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